NoLa, Part 1

If a picture is a worth 1,000 words, I’ve just written a novel about beautiful, swampy New Orleans, Louisiana.

We traveled all night, landed at 8a, piled into Aunt Joanne’s car, and were immediately handed cold beers that we popped practically before we were buckled. From those first minutes, as we drove past levees and meandered closer to the heart of the city toward the wild mansion HQ where we stayed in the Garden District, it was non-stop photos, fun, and sweat.

Once you surrender to the heat and cut through the thick humidity that drapes like snaking vines over everything, collecting in heavy pockets of air perfumed like the citrusy scent of drooping magnolias, it is so pleasant, green, and full of time.

All week, I lagged behind everyone, photographing as we went and trying to capture every riotous flower and crumbling detail before I’d have to run, tripping over the rugged sidewalk, made craggy by the roots of heavy-limbed trees that upended the cement into knobby lengths along each road.

It was gorgeous.

Check back for the second batch of photos – and see all of the many, many I took in this gallery. Password: unclewillard.

$68

Every moment is about a dollar, and – depending on how you view each instant – is quite an expensive memory or a passing, priceless second caught in the act of happening.

Summer and fall are over now, and – so very nearly is the year, but see? – I have this fattened deck of cards to flip and shuffle through when the radiator gurgles on cold Friday nights in December.

Pick a card, any card – a face card, preferably – and remember it: a sunny slight-of-hand for the mind.

Love you longtime, babies.

– Sawdust

From the Road, 10/1-10/4/2015

The scene opens with our protagonist crackling sheets of seaweed snacks into her mouth, chewing complicatedly, absentmindedly, as she hurtles down the highway to PANTyRAiD’s firm beat.

She has passed countless hours this month, this year, just like this – with the miles ticking away as steadily as the unfaltering bass. From PA to New England, New York, and back in one weekend; from PA to Cincinnati and back the next. Gone! – this weekend – again, and all over, journal and camera at the ready.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

(10/1/15) – PA to Rockport, Massachusetts

8:56a – The corn husk of my tamale catches the air out the car window, sails high, and flutters slowly downwards into a matching pile of leaves along the edge of Martin Gap Road – a good start to the day.

9:57a – Among the variegated greens and golds of the passing wooded mosaic – matted by sky and framed by the sides of mountains and I-80 – great, bright, jagged flashes of orange and coral spark like shards of lighted fire through windows in the dark.

10:58a – When you are forever on the road, the places that seem familiar start to stretch and expand. The bend around a rocky pass; the stains of the passenger seat; the comical names at creek-crossings zigzagged over bridges that ice before roadways; the Panera restroom at exit 232 with its smell of barely burned bread blended with bleach.

12:51p – Crossing into NY state on I-84, you begin the diagonal slant of spine along the Hudson, up and down each hill of notch and bump, a ridged backbone along the rushing water.

2:59p – Gas stations are the homes of seltzer water and American flags.

3:20p – New England this minute at the onset of autumn is perfect, gloomy, grey skies; crisp, cutting air; and maniacal, terrible drivers caught in tragic traffic.

3:42p – These uncontrollable black birds in amorphous flocks that flutter and warp and clump en bulbous mass remind me of the shadows of tree boughs that blow across walls and scatter like leaves in a strong wind.

5:37p – North of Boston after nearly nine hours in the car, I rolled open the window despite the damp cold, hoping the chill would revive me. The fresh scent of salty water across some unknown stretch of distance is even better. 

6:13p – End of day in Rockport, Massachusetts.

(10/2/15) – Rockport to Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts

9:32a – Leaving Gloucester – established 1623 – and leaving and thinking on friends  – some old and some very new – drives home the thought that there is not enough – never enough – time. I might choose immortality. 

12:15p – Enclosed in the glass and green metal aquarium that is my car, I wait protected from the gusting wind and smattering rain in my slot on the Woods Hole-Vineyard Haven ferry. Like dogged, industrious bees, the ferry attendants buzz around in bright yellow slickers to prep us for the wet ride. The horn blows, gently audible under the howling wind, and we begin to skim across the whitecapped water. Rough ups and pounding downs make my head feel suddenly pressurized when gales at the edge of Hurricane Joaquin hit us from the side and cause clanging metal to creak somewhere outside the car. I put on the e-break as we shift and knock, willing myself not to puke up my breakfast of granola and gas station coffee out of pure fear at the idea of exiting my bubble to lean over the listing side of the ferry. UP and DOWN; UP and DOWN; UP and DOWN aches the boat. UP and DOWN; UP and DOWN; UP and DOWN groans my stomach. I exhale long and stare out the passenger window into the deep teals and steel greys of the sea and sky, which are blending in the mist of the choppy horizon. Queasy still, I shut tight my eyes and note that at least I’m parked near a life buoy, should it come to that.

5:24p – Best chowder of my life. No contest. Local scallops also full of good tastes. 

6:09p – I am watching the ocean hurl curling waves of sea along the edge of the road out of Oak Bluffs. The crests of arcing water fan out and seem to clutch helplessly at the rocks along the road without grasping anything before they recede. 

(10/3/15) – On Martha’s Vineyard

9:34a – I have eaten alone in a lot of diners lately. Strong coffee and hot sauce on eggs make you feel alive and ready for nearly anything – including 5o mph punching winds.

(10/4/15) – Martha’s Vineyard to Brooklyn, NY to Huntingdon, PA

8:20a – Yesterday was scenic and beautiful and heartwarming. I will definitely return to Martha’s Vineyard sometime soon. This morning, we awoke at 5a after four hours of sleep. I was groaning and groggy, but as soon as I stepped out into the dark, the rushing, gusting wind and salt spray blasted me into consciousness. On the ferry, the sun undid the blues and blacks of the sky, casting a blaring golden gleam over everything. Rays rained in vectors illuminating ship and coast and mind. Everything is light and wind and all of us are alive! . . . Now I’m invigorated and in a diner in Falmouth, listening to all the cacophony of coastal Mass. accents. Sitting across from me is a potential me, in a future life in 30 years, a me as a vivacious grey-haired lady with big earrings and a scarf and sweater, reading a book alone in a diner at 8a. In this life, we ordered the same thing.

Cue “Simpsons” music.

1:26p – It is so surreal sometimes to visit the places you’ve already lived.

9:28p – Slicing west through the crisp, gorgeous night, I glanced right to notice the spots of salt left on my passenger sideview mirror – a memorable obstruction to recall the roiling ocean that splashed at it for two straight days.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

In the past half a year since my last post, much is different.

However – and always, it seems – I am still traveling like a fiend, a highway hound, a blur of a lady with wild hair and too many necklaces beaming down the road in green wheels. I put more miles on my car this year than ever before, which is saying something considering the dozens of times I’ve driven cross-country.

Soon I’ll be more stationary and will begin the hefty process of blogging the backload, but that’s a month away yet, and I’ve miles to go before I sleep.

See you on the flip-side. Be well, loves.

– SAW

Rust and Green

3/17/15, St. Patrick’s Day, 2:36p – This point of morphing and melding seasons – when crusty rusts exhume to greens, when winter clings to the windy spring of March – is my favorite. Its changeable breath blesses and infuses us with both warmth and coolness – sun and cloud – depending on the minute. My feeling may change on a dime, in a quarter, but for now – it is loveliness exactly.

The rust and green of this vibrant, muddy season was exhibited riotously at every turn today. Their colors overflowed from the deep pines blowing above to the flashing glint of jumping cinnamon fur in the sun. They spread from the dead grass and growing moss to the auburn scabs on patinaed handles. They germinated and covered old tools in the garage, my organ-tuner grandfather’s old license plate, and the bricks on the house, till they finally burned out when the last copper ember dipped below the horizon.

It is time to play outside; it is time to bask or fetch; it is time to blossom.

Grin as big as the smile in my great uncle’s photo as we move into spring, my pets. Even the geese are jubilant, honk-honk-honking from the south all day.

Sweet sleep when you get there, and be well till the re-seeing.

– Coon and Boon

 

 

From the Road – 2/12 to 3/12/2015

Like every other person’s before and after mine, my life is a complex mess of zigzagged paths of moments, shimmering and reverberating against each other like currents in the live wires that vector the landscape along the many highways I’m always driving. The magnitude and direction of each point in my life trails and webs together with its comrades into a knotty, discombobulated mass across an atlas. It is something I sit with constantly – trying to untie it, teasing it out – attempting to see where ‘home’ is, to find a loose end to keep hold of, to unravel a place for myself.

I’ve driven 1,429 miles in the last three weeks alone – all over PA, NY, and NJ – and in the next month, I am already anticipating over double that – 3,384 drive-miles slated for travel . . .

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Awhile ago, in the confusing and warm bleakness of a testy September, a friend described me to me, assessing that from his vantage point, I was always in motion. From where I sat in that moment, feeling stagnant and lost simultaneously, I wondered at his statement, and thought often on it afterwards.

Weeks later, though, I thought he might be right. Months later, I know it to be true.

9/20/14, 8:57a – I hope that when I’m dead and dirt, people look back at my life and say, “She had some trials, and it was often hard, but she was always happy and in motion.”

 2/12/15, 3:08p – To see the golden blue of an icy sky and the cool brown of snow-crusted cornfields is a refreshing blast of winter contrast across the curves of central Pennsylvania – where the white barns are whiter than the whitest snow.

2/13/15, 8a – Once again, a decision. I am torn between the city and the not, drawn away from vertical beings with backbones of steel and skins of glass, propelled towards the open air – pulsing in quivering emptiness like lungs along the spines of mountains, oxygen borne on veins of rivers . . . City or country? – life beats in both, peaking and dipping across their vibrant skylines and ridgelines, an EKG for all to see. Where to root; where to breathe; where to let a place’s lifeblood flow through me; where to grow and thrive myself? . . .

9:38a – From squished and giggling in a tight booth for sweaty breakfast, to the glorious outdoors at a balmy 13°: life lived at extremes, just the way I like it.

2/16/15, 4:43p – On these zero-degree days, smokey breath from hot chimneys plumes in thick columns, blocking out the dark green pines behind, as if someone smudged an eraser to grey and blot the treescape. (Happy birthday, Aimee).

2/22/15, 11:06a – Someone with a huge paintbrush swiped wisps of clouds into the sky.

2/23/15, 10:38a – Even though I’ve been on the road often lately – for hundreds and hundreds of miles – it never gets any less annoying when my phone cheerily shrieks, “GPS SIGNAL LOST!” at a crucial moment – as if she’s chipper to inform me – happy to be of help – in any situation, even one where she’s failed me.

11:04a – For all its millions of souls piled in miles of high rises, while parked in traffic on the Triboro Bridge, the city seems a vertical, quiet wilderness to be lost in, in silence, from afar.

12:34p – New York City, looking so teensy, from the Tappan Zee. And long, multi-colored cranes, like the legs of great upside-down storks, flail in the cold river water.

3:58p – The frozen Hudson is a sparkling mosaic, glinting like shards of fragmented glass below the road.

5:25p – The landscape is undulating, rounded hills of white; bursting orange sunsets; and reaching trees, brittle and brown – like a roasting marshmallow, aflame on top, with the charred, dark webs of the Palisades up its sides. 

5:59p – New Jersey, you can be pretty, but your drivers really are the worst.

3/9/2015, 3:36p – The familiar, stale smell of my car is always ready to greet me whenever I newly open its door in the eternal cycle of load up, unpack, gas up, move on . . . That first lukewarm breath of escaping air carries with it all the memories of dusty, wet, cool, or sweaty places before.

I am one of the cursed ones, one of the travelers – one of the intensely lucky sort – to be always on the move. The roof over my head each night is just as likely to be mine as someone else’s, to be unfamiliar as known, to be a sunroof in a car as the unfinished ceiling tiles of some kind strangers’ basement. It’s just as possible that I’ll catch some sleep in a bed as on a couch, entwined in blankets as cocooned in my thirteen-year-old sleeping bag. And – though it’s often frustrating and I feel aimless, homeless, and lonely sometimes – I still find it marvelous of myself – and surprising – to be always in motion, even though I have 3o years of stodgy adaptability as evidence of this roving resilience.

Upwards and onwards, and across the map, all of you!

Be well, my hearts. I vector to you soon.

– SAW

+